Working with many different people – designing their dream piece of jewellery – has amazed me at just how individual and exciting personal style can be. Beauty is expressed in a multitude of ways. In fine jewellery the design can be forever and fashions may fade quickly. People tend to design from their heart rather than what they see in the magazines.

"I don’t like standard beauty – there is no beauty without strangeness."
Karl Lagerfeld

Many designers find influence from their environment and their imagination but few would deny the influence of history. I would like to present a series of articles giving a brief explanation of the changes in jewellery styles from the 1890’s until today. Many of the design styles have continued to be represented over the years and reproductions abound.

Art Nouveau
This design period began around the 1890’s and was extremely popular in many countries until just before the First World War. The name was derived from Samuel Bing’s 1895 exposition in Paris “Maison de l’Art Nouveau” loosely translated this means “house of new art”. Bing dedicated his gallery to the works of artists such as Rodin, Gallè, Lalique, Toulouse-Lautrec and Beardsley. The Art Nouveau influence was found in architecture, furniture, drawing and painting but there was a profound influence on jewellery.

Lady of 1902 and Art Nouveau Fireplace. Photos from ‘Style in Costume’ by James Laver, 1949.

These two photos show the beautiful fluid lines and embellishment so popular in this era. The fireplace has a mythological medusa-like head as the centerpiece.

Art Nouveau designs often feature flowing and curved lines. Popular themes are nature (butterflies, dragonflies and birds), mythology and female forms. There was a great deal of influence from Japanese art and the movement was called Jugenstil in Germany, Modernism in Spain and Yellow Book Style in the UK (taken from a magazine of the time). Gold, enamel, pearls and cabochon stones featured often in the designs. Cloisonné – although created first by the Chinese in the 1700’s- was revived along with other beautiful enamelling techniques.

This necklace from René Lalique is called “Insect Woman and Black Swans”. It is held in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It was created with 18CT gold, enamel, Australian opals and Siberian Cabochon amethysts

Snakes are a common theme in Art Nouveau Jewellery. This Brooch is by Frèdèric Boucheron c. 1900. It was created using 18Ct gold, platinum, garnet, diamonds and emeralds. It is held in a private collection in New York.

If you find that this particular style of jewellery really inspires you please have a look at the Masriera website from Spain – these pieces will transport you to another time. www.masriera.es/

To bring this style into our century Cartier created this exquisite “Diamond Chain and Orchid Brooch Pendant” in 2005. It has been created in platinum and set with diamonds and rubelite Don’t be frightened at the thought of designing your own piece. It may not be as difficult or expensive as you think. Do some research and some brainstorming then take your ideas to a specialist in the field – just as you would take your ideas for the perfect home to an architect. That way you can have a forever piece. Something that is created especially for or by you, something that will suit your personal style and your budget, something you will love forever. “Fashion fades, only style remains the same.” Coco Chanel